熊-完全可打印的怪物卡車

Fully printable moter truck with four link suspeion and four wheel drive and steering with three differentials. I wanted a moter truck that actually looks like a moter truck, and not a truggy with large wheels. If you want to support my work you can use any of the Ebay or Banggood-links below before making purchases. Videos: Extra accessories: Mega truck wheels for it: Van body: Assembly notes: -Tighten the suspeion arm clamps around the axle balls until they allow some movement, but not too tight. The ball joint needs to be able to move with suspeion travel. -The axle gearbox halves may have some uglyness in the top where the 7mm bearing goes. Just remove any excess plastic threads and stuff the bearing in there. I've done it to many units without failure. I might improve this part of the design later on. -Apply a small amount of grease to the iide of all drive joints so that the plastic knuckles don't melt from friction. I use cheap bicycle lithium grease. Any grease will do. The drive shafts and drive knuckles can be a little tight. They will bed in. Adding 2x13 mm steel pi throuhg the holes in the ends greatly improve their longevity and torquen handling. -Apply grease to all gea. This prevents melting and keeps them working for long. I made closed gearboxes so that they could be greased without too much contamination. I use cheap bicycle lithium grease. Any grease will do. -The gea will bed in if they feel rough in the beginning. Most of the gea seem to be very strong and show no sig of overloading. The differential bevel gea can break with very rough use if they are made from PLA. I eventually printed them from Taulman 910 nylon, which survived my torture tests. -The smallest differential gea need small shafts to hold them in place. Make these short pieces from 1,8-2mm steel rods to fit in the diff gear. -Ball bearings can be a tight fit, depending on how accurate your printer prints. The holes are designed slightly oveize. Just press them in there or carefully hammer with something that eures the force hits the outside race. :) -The lower links flex when the car rolls. This is by design and works well and acts as an anti roll bar function. -Some parts have alternative parts so that the builder can create variatio and change the look of the truck. Parts marked SWB are short wheelbase optio, MWB are medium wheelbase optio, and LWB are long wheelbase optio. LWB looks more modern while SWB looks old school. Mix and match front and back as you like. -The screws all thread into the plastic parts without any metal nuts. It may be difficult to screw them in the fit time. -Though the hardware list calls for machine screws, similarly sized self tapping screws will work fine in most cases. The exception being where the part is supposed to pivot on the screw, like the spindles and suspeion link hinges. The length can also be different than the recommended in many cases as the holes are usually much deeper than necessary. -The rear steering servo needs to be reveed. If it can not be reveed in the radio the longer servo link can be used itead by connecting to the top servo arm itead of the bottom. -The diff lock gear is not recommended for jumps and high speed bashing because it increases the load on the whole drive train. -Some illustratio show an older diff variant with five little sattelite gea while the newer stronger veion has four gea. Otherwise they are the same. Required hardware: -Minimum 2 channel tramitter and receiver. Cheap:This is better because you can mix the steering in programming -540 or 380 motor and ESC. The prototype uses a 21t GoolRC brushed motor for overload testing. I recommend a minimum of 35T The best ESC for it is the Hobbywing Quicrun 80A "Crawler Brushed" ESC which can be set up to run with reduced brake and reduced punch which extends the gear life coiderably: ) -Metal gear servos. Maximum 23mm body length. Corona 843mg is HIGHLY recommendedThese also work well, but are very noticeably weaker -Six cell Sub-C ni-mh battery or 2S hard body lipo ( or saddle pack for the newest saddle frame (recommended). Any small 2s lipo that will fit will work. It's a low power car. -The springs are made from regular road bicycle tubes. Cut them as wide as you need to get the necessary teion. The butyl is very durable and won't rot. I used one of my old punctured tubes. I also use these rubber bands to hold the battery in place -In addition to the printable body you can use other bodies. I ordered this body which fits well -Four moter tires. Printing the printable tires is possible but is probably more expeive than buying them, and less flexible by far. I use the chevron veion of the two in the following links -7 3mmx19mm carbon fiber, steel or brass shafts for the diffs and live axle gearboxes -2mm steel rod for the pin drive shafts and diff bevel gea -4 to 8 3x7x3 ball bearings -20 12x18x4 ball bearings. -44 M2x8 screws - differential gearbox assembly, upper four link clamp and steering link assembly. 24 of them for assembly of the two piece wheels. -2 M2.5x22 screws - For mounting a 380 sie motor. -22 M3x8 screws - Main frame assembly and steering spindle assembly. -8 M3x12 screws - Lower suspeion link and upper rubber band posts. -6 M3x22 screws (M3x24 can also be used) - 540 Motor mount and lower rubber band posts. -4 M4x20 screws - For the wheels. -An assortment of screws is recommended. - Front of Datsun Big Bear body. - Middle of Datsun Big Bear body. - Middle of Datsun Big Bear body with window cutouts. - Rear of Datsun Big Bear body. - Body posts for Datsun Big Bear body. - Front of Datsun Big Bear body. - Mirro for the Datsun Big Bear body. - Shortest body post for lexan bodies. - Medium body post for lexan bodies. - Long body post for lexan bodies. - Extra long body post for lexan bodies. - Strengthened medium body post for lexan bodies. - Strengthened extra long body post for lexan bodies. - Central gearbox and pinion for 380 size moto. - Central gearbox and pinion for 540 size moto. - Central gearbox gea. - Optional locking "gea" for all diffs. - Live axle gearbox housing. Front and rear are the same. - Long internal axles. - Live axle gearbox gea. - Input coupling and bevel gear for the live axle gearbox. - Input coupling and bevel gear in one piece. Pause the print and irt bearings before the gear portion. - Steering spindles for the outer ends of the live axles. - Basic main frame sides. Frame01-sidemount - Main frame sides with saddle pack mounts on the sides for lower CG. Frame01-split01 and - Basic main frame sides, split up to fit tiny printe. - Front and rear frame pieces. "Triangle" veion. - Front and rear frame pieces. "Tall cage" veion - Front and rear frame pieces. "No cage" veion. - Front and rear frame pieces. "Low cage" veion. - Rollbar. - Rollbar with light holde. - Basic servo saver for italling onto a servo arm or disc. - Splined servo saver for italling onto a small servo spline. - Splined servo saver for italling onto a large servo spline. - Steering links. - Offset steering link in case it's needed to line up, for example when using a servo saver. - New and improved steering link with ball linkage to the servo. - Suspeion parts for short wheelbase, type 1. - Suspeion parts for medium wheelbase, type 1. - Suspeion parts for long wheelbase, type 1. - Suspeion parts for short wheelbase, type 2. - Suspeion parts for medium wheelbase, type 2. - Suspeion parts for long wheelbase, type 2. - Lower suspeion bushing and rubber band flanges for the spring assembly. - Moter truck wheel. Narrow type. Recommended for bought tires. - Moter truck wheel. Wide type. Fits wide printed tires. - Wide printable left tire. 83 mm width. Fits wide wheel. - Wide printable right tire. 83 mm wide wheel. - Narrow printable left tire. 73 mm width. Fits narrow wheel. - Narrow printable right tire. 73 mm width. Fits narrow wheel.